Tuesday 20 November 2012

You Dirty Mother Flipper...

MOTHER FLIPPER @ THE BLACK HEART.



Mother Flipper have been around for a wee while now. And as well as tearing up many of London's street food markets in recent months, they have also taken up residency in Camden's NYC dive bar-esque The Black Heart. So obviously, I had to have them. Well, I tell a lie. I've had them before, but I wanted to try them in a semi permanent home. Would their street food ethos transfer indoors? 

The Black Heart is a great blink and you'll miss it bar tucked away just behind Camden High Street, serving up a great selection of craft beers, seemingly not suffering at the hands of Brewdog opening right around the corner recently. Also a selection of hand pump ales, rawk n roll aplenty and, until recently, some great tasting pizzas. But I don't do bar reviews. If I did they would adopt a certain blurriness after 10pm. I'm here for the meat. Literally.

We perused the menu and decisions were made at an alarming rate. We headed to the cash-only hatch and ordered. One Bacon Swiss Flipper, One Double Candied Bacon Flipper, onion rings, fries and a whole host of dips. This may come as no surprise but in my opinion, this is the best burger in Camden right now. And if you wanna be pedantic, Dirty Burger is in Kentish Town. And my favourite thing about it is they're not the most appetising when they arrive, especially when the waiter has his thumb dug into the top of the delightful brioche bun. Dinner etiquette is tossed out of the window as there is no other way to eat other than to just get stuck in. The patties are thin but not lacking substance and are beautifully pink in the middle. The best thing about these burgers is that they're meaty but they don't sit in your stomach like a lead balloon afterwards. The bun is light and holds well under torture from meat juice, crunchy pickles, the radioactive yellow of the american cheese (which I LOVE) and our hands which attempt, in vain, to keep it all under control. It all works in harmony to pull off a great tasting burger. I cant mention these burgers without mentioning the candied bacon. Little strips of artery-busting goodness. Strips of bacon fried in Maple Syrup. I mean. I didn't know whether to lick it or chew it. 

I did both.

I have to mention the sides too. The onion rings. Red onion fried in a heavily seasoned, slightly mustard batter are just lovely. However, team this with the extremely strong garlic mayonnaise one hour before you're off to the cinema? Wow. Heavy stuff. The chips were also yummy too but were just slightly on the soggy side for me. My boyfriend devoured them and completely disagreed with me.




For the beer lovers among you, there was a great Oaked Arrogant Bastard Ale recommended by the lovely staff as a great partner for the burger. I agree completely as without the food the bear was oakey as hell and quite difficult to drink. But thats my view. If you like it oakey then its right up your street. 





All in all The Black Heart have done well to secure such a great street food staple here. And its a real coup for Camden. We left with full belly's, smelling like garlic and Arrogant Bastard to stink out the local Odeon.

http://motherflipperburgers.com/
http://www.ourblackheart.com/


Monday 12 November 2012

Pass the Salt....

JOHN SALT.

John Salt, formerly The Keston Lodge, is the new venture from 580 Ltd (The Owl and Pussycat, The Defectors Weld) and is home to 'hot chef of the moment' Ben Spalding's (ex-Roganic) culinary vision. I was lucky enough to enjoy a preview of some of the amazing bar menu that will be served downstairs. His 4,8,12 (and a rumoured 18 course whopper) course menus, including the now famous glazed brick, are now booked up until well into 2013. And if the bar menu is anything to go by, it is not surprising in the slightest.




I started off with the dish I'd been most excited to try, the Greasy Chicken Skin Sandwich. 2 wafer thin slices of, well chicken skin, sandwiching paprika mayonnaise, cucumber, baby gem and red onion. This is a bit of a wonder if I'm honest. Two pieces of chicken skin manage to retain moisture, texture and flavour regardless of the fact they're completely flat, combined with the crunchiness of the salad and kick of the paprika mayonnaise.





Next up was the Spiced Wagyu Beef Wraps. With blowtorched lettuce and minted sour cream. Unfortunately the picture doesn't do these any justice, as even from the seemingly 'normal' looking wraps, they're spongey and delicious. These wraps, in their simplest form are like a chilli beef with minted cream sauce. But they're more than that also.The depth of flavour is such that the simple ingredients do more than if you or I attempted the same thing. It comes from Ben's complete understanding of the ingredients he uses. 





I veered off course for a short while and sampled a dessert before heading back into savoury. Chantaclaire Apple and Lemongrass Crumble. This came with a miniature individual bottle of beautifully green basil milk. This was yummy and tasted as a good crumble should. The basil milk, resplendently green in colour added a savoury edge to the more traditional custard. And it works. 




Next up, and back on the savoury course, is a great example of simple ingredients joined together to make something utterly delicious. Ciabatta bread, with a homemade BBQ sauce. This was topped with the smoothest and creamiest pomme puree (thats a kind of mashed potato for the uninitiated) with shaved truffles on top. I'm a girl of simple tastes and this was comfort food on another level. I could have eaten it all night, and believe me, I tried. And it was good I didn't event get a picture of it. Oops sorry.
Last but my god no means least, the Fried Macchiavelli Egg (Called Macchiavelli because the hens are brought over from Italy where they have feasted mostly on almonds. I THINK. I am sure I will be corrected on this if its wrong.)  served with smoked watermelon, mash, aromatic ketchup, golden crumbs and garnished with thinly sliced radish. The egg was so thick and silky, combined with the mashed potato and watermelon each mouthful was an utter delight.




All in all, John Salt is a labour of love for these guys. Its evident from the second you walk through the doors. From the in house design of the building itself, to the cocktail menu devised by Soulshakers, to the selection of beers you wont find in any 'craft beer' style place thats popping up across the capital these days. Every element has been painstakingly thought over and it really shows. I loved every mouthful at John Salt and cannot wait to go back to try their newly launched Sundy Roast. Not an Aunt Bessie's in sight.



For reservations email; reservations@john-salt.com
Website - www.john-salt.com
Twitter - @JohnSaltN1 Facebook - www.facebook.com/JohnSaltN1